Tash-Rabat, Kel-Suu & Ala-Kul - 11 Days

Today's ride asks a little more of you. After breakfast you climb toward the Jalgyz-Karagai Pass at 3300 m, a steady effort rewarded at the top by the first sight of Song-Kul shimmering far below.

You descend to the lakeshore past grazing herds and scattered yurts, reaching camp by evening. There's time to walk by the water; after dinner, the night sky here is thick with stars.

You leave the lake and drive south on a beautifully varied road, up over the Moldo-Ashuu Pass (3200 m), down to a streamside picnic, then through the small villages of the Ak-Talaa region.

Crossing the Mels Pass, the wide Arpa Valley opens out before you reach a cosy guesthouse near the 15th-century Tash-Rabat Caravanserai. After tea, walk up to this remarkable stone way-station and the hills around it.

Today you drive deep into the Kok-Kiya Valley, gateway to the hidden Kel-Suu Lake. The track threads through the villages of the At-Bashy region, framed by dramatic ranges, with a riverside picnic in the Bosogo Valley along the way.

You cross the high Kyndy Pass (3900 m) into the vast Ak-Say pastures, passing yurts and herds, and reach your guesthouse in Kok-Kiya by early evening, time for a gentle walk before dinner.

One of the trip's great highlights. After breakfast you set off on a gentle trek, following a river through open valleys with mountains on every side and herds grazing in the distance.

About two hours in, Kel-Suu reveals itself, a startling lake hemmed by cliffs. Linger over a packed lunch and the views (an optional boat ride is possible) before retracing the trail to the guesthouse.

You drive back out of Kok-Kiya toward Naryn through wide-open pasture country, reaching town around lunchtime for a warm meal and a short rest.

In the afternoon it's a short drive on to Tash-Bashat, an authentic, untouristed village where you check into a comfortable hotel, a welcome change after yurts and mountain guesthouses. Stroll the streets, unwind, and enjoy a hearty dinner.

Today blends scenery and culture on the way to Issyk-Kul. You climb over the Dolon Pass (3030 m), then stop in Kochkor to visit a local Dungan family and cook lagman, their famous hand-pulled noodle dish, and then eat the meal you helped make.

Driving on east to the lake, you reach a lakeside yurt camp with time for a swim. In the evening, head to the Ak-Say canyons to catch the sunset before returning for the night.

The day starts with an eagle-hunter demonstration, a window onto an old Kyrgyz tradition. From there you explore the dramatic, colour-streaked Fairy-Tale Canyons and stop in Tamga for lunch.

The afternoon takes in the Barskoon Waterfalls and the red sandstone of the Jety-Oguz Valley before you arrive in Karakol, time for a short wander through town before dinner.

A short drive to Ak-Suu village, then you shoulder a daypack and set off up the valley to Altyn-Arashan. The trail follows a sparkling river through alpine forest, with a riverside picnic to break the climb.

By early evening you reach the gorge and your guesthouse. After a full day on foot, sink into the natural hot springs, then dinner and stargazing in the quiet of the mountains.

The biggest day of the trip, and one of the most beautiful. On foot or on horseback, you head up from Altyn-Arashan, following the river before the trail turns into the forest and climbs toward Keldike Gorge.

A last, slippery push brings you to the Ala-Kul Pass (3900 m), where the turquoise lake and its glaciers spread out below. After photos and a rest, you descend back to Altyn-Arashan for the hot springs and dinner.

A final morning on the trail, retracing the river and forest path down to Ak-Suu, one last lungful of mountain air. From there you drive to Karakol for lunch.

The road home runs along the northern shore of Issyk-Kul, the "Pearl of Central Asia," reaching Bishkek in the evening, the close of a trip stitched together from horseback days, hidden lakes, and nomad hospitality.